FRIDAY
3pm Arrive at Toulouse-Blagnac Airport, and a 20-minute cab later you’ll be in front of the 11th-century Basilica of Saint-Sernin, a Unesco World Heritage site. The stunning Romanesque interior has grand vaulted ceilings. Grab coffee at Café La Fiancée.
4pm Check in at Hôtel Villa du Taur, a swish boutique hotel (doubles from £99, villadutaur.com) steps from Saint-Sernin. Its central location makes it easy to explore the city on foot, with the Capitole, Marché Victor Hugo and the Garonne river all nearby.
6pm Stroll to Place du Capitole, the main square, then weave through pretty streets. Toulouse’s pink brick glows in the evening sun, earning its nickname, La Ville Rose. End with seasonal dishes at Molette & Une Faim d’Ours (£23 for two courses).
SATURDAY
10am Visit the Marché Victor Hugo. Start with coffee and a chocolatine (never say pain au chocolat here!) from Maison Beauhaire. Try cheeses at Deux Chavanne (above), or to shop like a pro, do the Taste of Toulouse tour (£91, tasteoftoulouse.com).
2pm Head to the Bemberg Foundation inside the historic palace Hôtel d’Assézat. This astonishing private art collection spans the Renaissance to the early 20th century, with works by Titian, Canaletto, Degas and Bonnard (£14, fondation-bemberg.fr).
3pm Walk to the Couvent des Jacobins – built by the Dominicans in the 13th century, it is a lovely example of Southern French Gothic architecture. Continue to the Garonne and cross the Pont Neuf to the steps of La Daurade, a popular riverside spot.
7pm Start the night at the cosy, discreet Le Bar de Gaspard inside hotel Soclo near Saint-Sernin. It opens on to a quiet garden and draws a local crowd for cocktails (£13). Then wander to Place Saint-Georges to eat at buzzy brasserie Monsieur Georges.
SUNDAY
10am Visit Les Abattoirs, Toulouse’s museum of modern art, in a converted 19th-century slaughterhouse. The building’s industrial architecture gives the space a raw, creative energy, showcasing bold abstract paintings and edgy installations.
1pm Find calm in the Japanese Garden at Compans-Caffarelli, with its ponds, bridges and delicate planting. Red squirrels are often spotted here. Then head back to Saint-Sernin and take the short taxi to the airport, wrapping up a perfect weekend.
