Last December, I spent 48 hours in Seoul. As someone deeply invested in skincare, the entire experience was overwhelming. Where did I go and what did I buy in such a short window of time? Pretty quickly I worked out that K-beauty fans are obsessed with PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide and otherwise referred to as salmon DNA. You can have it injected, but it’s also very popular topically.
Rejuvenex – a pharmacy-only PDRN cream lauded on TikTok as a miracle salve – continued to pop up, and so I spent the better part of my time hunting it down. I’m not a quitter, so eventually found it in stock (a feat that is allegedly not easy). Excitement aside, I realised I wasn’t entirely sure how it worked as a skincare ingredient, so I asked Narae Ko, who is the Head of Brand and Marketing at W Cosmetics (aka my favourite place on Earth), to explain exactly what is PDRN, how to use it, what PDRN products everyone is into right now and most importantly, if it’s going to change my face.
What is PDRN as a skincare ingredient?
“Believe it or not, PDRN comes from salmon DNA and originated in wound healing medical research in the 1980s. Salmon sperm specifically was found to be highly compatible with human DNA, while further studies found that it promoted collagen production and reduced inflammation. In 2008, South Korea’s MFDS approved salon-derived PDRN injectables to be used in dermatology and aesthetics. Topical PDRN was made available in the mid to late 2010s, but we started to see a surge in popularity around 2023.”
It’s all derived from salmon?
“Yes, but there is a vegan for of PDRN on the market sourced from Korean wild ginseng – it’s been found to provide similar regenerative benefits. Plant-based PDRN is generally founds to less likely trigger reactions compared to the animal derived products.”
Was there an instance or moment you noticed it take off?
“Consumers are savvy and they’re looking for formulations that work to deliver the results they seek. While there was initial buzz on social amplifying the ‘salmon sperm’ narrative, I think the broader long-term consumer interest is in the skin-repairing benefits.”
So what exactly are the skin benefits of PDRN?
“When applied topically via a cream or serum, it works gently and gradually to support repair and regeneration in the skin. It’s also known to calm inflammation and support recovery when the skin is irritated or following sun exposure. Topical PDRN has known to encourage collagen support overtime, with subtle and cumulative results.”
How is it different topically compared to an in-clinic treatment?
“Injectables are delivered directly into the deeper layers of the skin which will promote strong collagen stimulation and structural repair. When applied topically, it will work mostly on the upper layers to improve texture, glow and recovery. Results topically will be more subtle and gradual.”
What PDRN products are the most popular right now? What’s everyone buying?
“Medicube PDRN Pink Collagen Capsule Cream, Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum, Medicube PDRN Pink Vita Coating Mask, Abib Pdrn Retinal Eye Patch Glow Jelly, Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum and the Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Eye Serum. “
Do you use it personally? I’d love to understand your thoughts?
“Yes! But I’ve only ever tried topical products as the injectable solution is quite costly and painful, or so I’ve heard… While I’m not vegan, I’ve been very interested in plant-based PDRN, and for the past three months have been using VT’s Mild Reedle Shot 50 in combination with PDRN Cream. Topical solutions usually support the upper layers of the skin, but the Reedle Shot helps enhance penetration into the deeper layers. I’ve been using it consistently for three months and have definitely noticed:
- Plumper skin
- Refined pores
- Overall healthy skin texture and glow”
Shop the edit:
Medicube PDRN Pink Collagen Capsule Cream
Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum
Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
