Fashion East is known for switching things up. That’s the whole point of it: to showcase designers on rotation, so there’s a new brand to discover every season. For years, the show has been held at Shoreditch’s Old Truman Brewery, but since its 25th anniversary celebrations last season, the talent incubator has been switching up its location as well as its designers. In September, Fashion East took over the ICA, while this season, it took us to south London – taking over Manor Place, a community-led space opened by Palace Skateboards and Nike. The venue itself transported guests back to our youth club days, inside a village hall-style building, where young skateboarders zig-zagged around us. For everything you might’ve missed from the evening, scroll down for a break down of each collection.
This season’s line-up saw the return of designers Jacek Gleba and Louis Mayhew, who both showed their second collection under the incubator, and introduced a new addition: Traiceline Pratt’s GOYAGOMA. First up was Gleba, whose work often references ballet, redefining masculinity with soft pastels, floating fabrics and feminine necklines. This season he paid homage to Oscar Wilde’s one-act tragedy, Salome, which was also turned into a ballet in 1913 by Vaslav Nijinsky.
Next up was the rookie of the season, Traiceline Pratt with his remarkably polished brand GOYAGOMA. If you’re unfamiliar with Pratt, he trained under Phoebe Philo before launching his own label last year, which takes its name from two of his most influential artists: painter Francisco de Goya and fashion designer Michel Goma. The clothes themselves were incredibly wearable, aptly titled Something To Wear. Sleek trench coats were reimagined and belted around the thighs, while tailored trousers and cropped jackets were effortlessly elegant.
Mayhew closed proceedings with a collection titled Come On Over, inspired by the idea of going on a treasure hunt. Picture The Goonies, but with a high-fashion makeover. The collection took its name from the 1980 song “Burn” by Blue Eyed Soul, which features the lyrics: “I’ve got a four leaf clover, won’t you please come over?”. The hats were a highlight, as were the DIY-style bindles that models carried over their shoulders, like ants on a mission.
