Do LED light masks actually work? Yes, but there’s a catch

The beauty industry is more than saturated. Almost every day there is a new gadget or formula promising incredible results. But it’s not always easy to tell a genuine product from snake oil.

In this instance of LED light therapy, truth is stranger than fiction. Yes, these light waves can indeed have a therapeutic benefit for the skin. But that doesn’t mean that every LED light mask on the market will give you the same results. If you’re interested in buying one for yourself, here’s what you need to know.

What are LED light masks and how do they work?

LED stands for light-emitting diode. LED treatments are a common in-spa treatment thanks to clinical grade LED panels, but of course in recent years, this technology has been translated into a consumer-grade mask which can be easily used at home.

LED can target and improve a range of skin concerns; it works by penetrating the skin to spark changes at a molecular level. Though different light wavelengths and colours do different things. The most commonly used light spectrums are red, blue and yellow:

Red light is designed to increase circulation and collagen stimulation, ideal for those wanting to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Blue light focuses on eradicating the bacteria that causes acne, which may assist in stopping frequent breakouts.
Yellow light can work to reduce the appearance of redness and pigmentation on the skin.

Do they actually produce results? And are LED masks safe?

The claims can sound too good to be true. So, does LED actually work? Especially in mask form? The good news is, yes, LED light masks have been scientifically proven to improve the skin in a number of ways. But the efficacy is all about the concentration of light and not all masks have enough light or the correct wavelengths to be effective. For further clarity, we spoke to skin expert and DermapenWorld treatment consultant Renata Battestin on what it takes to see a therapeutic benefit from an LED light mask.

“For optimal therapeutic results, both light intensity and wavelength precision are essential,” said Battestin.

“We recommend a 633nm wavelength for therapeutic healing benefits, and deeper penetrating 830nm and 1070nm wavelengths for full anti-ageing benefits,” she said. “When these are used together, these wavelengths create a synergising rejuvenation effect.”

The concentration of this light is especially critical to delivering results. Even if the wavelength is right, if the mask is not bright enough, it won’t work effectively. For red light the optimal irradiance range is 25-120 milliwatts/CM2; for blue its 3-30 milliwatts/CM2 and for yellow its 40-150 milliwatts/CM2.

The scientific consensus is that LED masks are safe to use. In fact, there are a number that are TGA-approved in Australia.

How long and how often do you need to use an LED mask to get the benefits?

The good news is that even just one session with a mask that has the right wavelength and irradiance levels can improve the skin.

“A single 10-minute session leaves your skin feeling plumper, more hydrated and refreshed, with visibly improved dark spots and pigmentation,” said Battestin. “These results improve with repeated use, with many reporting noticeable results after one month.”

After four weeks of three 10-minute sessions per week Dermapenworld’s studies showed:

95% of participants said their skin was brighter and plumper
98% of participants said their skin felt firmer
96% of participants said their fine lines were less visible

Which LED Masks are the best?

When choosing an LED mask, finding one with therapeutic wavelengths and irradiance levels will give you the best chance of seeing results.

An easy way to tell which ones will have actual skin benefits – if you don’t have time to check the milliwatts per square centimetre – is to just check which masks have TGA- or FDA-approved therapeutic claims. Below you’ll find a list.