When Michael Rider was announced as the new creative of Celine in October 2024, the fashion world breathed a sigh of relief. The American designer was not as well-known to the public as his predecessor, Hedi Slimane, but his inter-industry pedigree spoke for itself, having worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, Phoebe Philo at Céline, and at Polo Ralph Lauren, revitalising the US brand as its most recent creative director. After a period of initial CV sleuthing, Rider’s pouching from Polo and return to Celine was regarded as a bit of a coup.
After a year of unprecedented machinations at the top of luxury fashion, the designer’s debut was arguably one of the most anticipated, and it all came to a head this weekend as the designer presented his vision of Celine to the world. Stealing couture week’s thunder by debuting the day before, the show was held in the company’s rue Vivienne HQ, with Celine-branded bicycles parked outside, and guests turning up proudly wearing their invitations around their necks (more on that later). After Slimane’s enigmatic tenure, the moment felt like a reopening of sorts, welcoming the world back to a Celine runway for the first time since 2023. For everything that happened at the show, scroll down for more.
Before the show began, we were given one large hint that silk scarves would be a prominent part of Rider’s debut via this season’s invitation. Delivered to guests and editors at the start of the weekend, the RSVP came swaddled in a black and white silk scarf, artfully wrapped by Emiko Origuri. An artisan trained in origata – the traditional Japanese art of ceremonial gift wrapping – Origuri’s work is guided by the Japanese concept of omotenashi, a kind of hospitality centred on deep care, attentiveness and the highest quality.
As well as on the invite, guests were also greeted by a silk scarf as they entered the show space, but this time a giant one strung up from each corner of the courtyard. Featuring an equestrian-inspired print, the scarf seemed to suggest that Rider would be pulling from the house’s connection with the sport, which house founder Céline Vipiana had a strong appreciation for.
As mentioned before, Celine hasn’t staged a runway since February 2023, so we haven’t had a Celine frow in a while. This season seemed to make up for that though, with Mustafa the Poet, Ramy Youseff, Dev Hynes, Alanis Morissette and Naomi Watts all showing up for Rider’s debut. Joining them were also Kristen Wiig, Jerrod Carmichael, Christopher Abbott, Dan Levy, Kim Tae-hyung, Bae Suzy and Park Bo-gum.
As for the clothes, Rider nodded to his former boss’s famous tenure at the house with silhouettes that could have been taken from the Philo era. Strong-shouldered jackets with contoured waists, casual suiting with long maxis skirts and looks styled with silk scarves around the neck. Elsewhere, references to Slimane’s time at the house were also telegraphed through the slim silhouettes and model casting, with skinny leather pants and sunglasses worn by long-haired rockers. Despite these references though, the 72-look collection felt all Rider’s own, with a sumptuous mix of bold primary colours and subdued palettes, plus some standout ‘CELINE PARIS’ leather boots which are sure to be an It-item when the collection hits stores.
After the show, Rider detailed his vision of the house to the press, in a poignant and contemplative note. “Coming back to Celine, and to Paris, back to 16 rue Vivienne in a changed world, has been incredibly emotional for me. And a complete joy,” said the American designer. “Celine stands for quality, for timelessness and for style, ideals that are difficult to catch, and even harder to hold on to, to define, despite more and more talk about them out there.”
Rider went on to say that this collection was the house’s attempt to distil those ideals, formulating a way of dressing that will stand the test of time. “I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on, that becomes a part of the wearer’s life, that may capture a moment in time but also speaks to years and years of gestures and occasions and change,” said Rider. “Of the past, the present and the future, of memories, of usefulness and of fantasy, of life really.”
Scroll through the gallery at the top of the page for the entire SS26 collection
