I’ve tried thousands of skincare products – but there’s only ONE ‘magic potion’ I’d spend my money on for real results (and the experts agree): POLISHED by Elise Wilson

Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where FEMAIL’s qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don’t have to.

If I had a dollar for every time a friend or family member whispered, ‘Do I really need a serum?’, I’d be writing this from a villa in Tuscany.

In my opinion – and that of countless derms and facialists I’ve talked to over the years, I should add – those slippery little potions you might be skipping in favour of a thick cream, are actually the MVP of your skincare shelf. (A pic of my ‘shelfie’ below for context).

And if you’re not using one yet? Consider this your official nudge to learn just how a great serum can transform your skin into that glowing glass-like complexion that only seems to be reserved for the stars.

One of the best parts of my job as a beauty editor – aside from the overflowing shelves of face masks and lip balms – is the sheer volume of skincare I get to try.

Trust me, if there’s a serum worth knowing about, it’s probably passed over my face at some point.

After nearly two decades in the industry, my skin has been through just about everything. (Ask me about the lip-plumping gadget that turned my mouth blue for four days!).

In full transparency: I’ve had filler, and for the past eight-or-so years I’ve been no stranger to the world of neuromodulators (those magic injections that start with the letter ‘B’, if you’re also in the club, fine if not though of course).

But I’m always trying to stretch out the time between those appointments, and I honestly believe it’s the clever, hardworking serums in my routine that are helping me do just that.

Of course, the skincare I relied on in my late 20s doesn’t quite cut it anymore. Now that I’m well into my 30s, my skin’s needs have shifted.

While I’ve always prioritised looking after my complexion, and have a few professional treatments under my belt, I still deal with congestion, unpredictable Sydney weather, and full-time exposure to recycled office air.

And that combination? It’s not exactly skin friendly. So, I rely heavily on smart, targeted serums to keep my glow going, even when life (and air con) tries to dull it down.

I’m very aware too that some people are layering five of them morning and night like it’s a chemistry experiment, while others aren’t even sure what they are, let alone know where they slot into their routine.

Between TikTok influencers spruiking 12-step routines and shelves groaning with alphabet creams – A for anti-ageing, B for barrier-boosting, C for collagen, D for… who knows – it’s enough to make anyone break out from stress alone.

But if you care about your skin (and chances are, if you’re reading this, you do), serums are not optional. They’re essential.

I’m not saying you need to mortgage your house to buy them, or that you’ll wake up with Hailey Bieber’s glass skin by Friday. But used correctly, the right serum can absolutely change your skin.

Whether it’s brightening dullness, softening lines, fading pigment, and helping you age a little more like Jennifer Aniston and a little less like a shrivelled apricot.

So, what are serums, really? When should you start using them? What’s the deal with Retinol vs Retinal? And do you really need these skincare A, B, C’s, or is the industry just gaslighting us all?

To answer all of that and more, I tapped one of Australia’s most trusted celebrity skincare experts, Ingrid Seaburn, for her no-nonsense intel, because we all need a bit of expert guidance to cut through this serum circus.

Let’s get into it.

What is a serum, anyway?

Let’s start with the basics. According to Ingrid, ‘A serum is usually defined as a concentrated version of active ingredients (or non-active) to deliver to the dermal layer of the skin a specific effect on the health of the skin.’

As for application? ‘They are applied after cleansing and before moisturising,’ she added.

Ingrid also likened serums to tiny skin soldiers, packed with potent actives that actually do something, unlike many moisturisers, which mostly sit on top and feel nice.

Do I need one? (And if so, when?) 

Short answer? Yes. Long answer? Also yes, but it depends on which one.

‘You can start using antioxidant serums from your late teens,’ Ingrid explained.

‘Once you hit your 30s and 40s, anti-ageing serums with Vitamin A and C should be non-negotiable to slow down oxidative and cellular ageing.’

If you’re still in your twenties and glowing like a glazed donut, you can keep it simple. 

However, by 30, your skin starts producing less collagen and cell turnover begins to slack off, which is where serums step in to speed things back up.

I make it a very indulgent skincare ritual every morning with a great cup of coffee and some Maria Carey in the background on loop. It certainly puts a pep in my step, and my skin.

So which one do I buy? (Enter the ABCs of skincare…)

There are a lot of serums out there, and as you’ve probably gathered if you’ve made it this far, the ingredient list can read like a science textbook.

But don’t worry, I’ve broken down the big three you actually need to know:

Vitamin A (aka Retinol or Retinal):

This is the gold standard in serums according to Ingrid.

‘Retinol is the most important anti-ageing ingredient. It regulates oil, increases cell turnover and makes your skin act like younger skin.’

But here’s the kicker: not all Vitamin A serums are created equal. You might’ve heard the ongoing ‘Retinol vs Retinal‘ debate, and yes, there is a difference.

‘Retinal is the second phase of conversion of retinoid acid in your skin, and in my opinion, it’s the most effective and well-tolerated form of vitamin A. It works faster than standard Retinol and is gentler too.’

And what about the trendy natural option, Bakuchiol? ‘It’s not half as effective, but can be nice to build skin health in the right formula,’ she added.

TLDR: Retinal is your best bet if you want results and comfort. Apply at night only and always follow with an SPF the next day a it can make skin more sensitised.

I have used the Medik8 Crystal Retinal formulas ($99) for years and I like that they have a staging process starting at level 3 and building up. So newbies can start at the gentle, lower end of potency and then work up as their skin tolerates.

Vitamin B (aka Niacinamide):

The ultimate team player, Niacinamide is a brilliant all-rounder that boosts your skin’s barrier, helps with redness, and plays well with other actives.

‘It also helps combat rosacea and other issues,’ If your skin is sensitive, this one’s a winner. 

A product like Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment ($78) is a good potent formula that can happily be layered in with your other favourite serums.

Vitamin C:

Brightening, protective, collagen-boosting, this antioxidant does it all.

‘Vitamin C plays a big role in collagen production and helps repair and prevent UV damage,’ Ingrid noted.

You’ll want to use this in the morning under SPF for that radiant, glowy skin we all fake with highlighter. 

Any dermatologist (or beauty editor) would agree with me that La Roche-Posay 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum ($75) is a great pharmacy find. And it’s often on sale for a fraction of the price, btw.

Whereas iS Clinical’s Super Serum ($161) is another great vitamin C option, and a brand loved by the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actress Meghan Fahy for both this cult formula and their multi-use Pro-Heal Serum Advance serum too.

Hyaluronic Acid

Technically not active, but absolutely essential nonetheless. It’s like a tall glass of water for your skin.

‘It sits in your epidermis and helps retain water,’ 

Pro tip: always apply it to damp skin and follow up with a moisturiser to lock it in.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 ($15.90) is one of the most budget-friendly and reputable formula I’ve come across.

Can you just use one serum at a time?

You can, but you don’t have to. My personal routine includes a hydrating hyaluronic serum in the morning, followed by Vitamin C, then at night I rotate between Retinal and Niacinamide (depending on how sensitive my skin’s feeling).

The trick is to ease into actives slowly, and to listen and see what your skin really needs. In winter, I need moisture and glow, so my Retinal is usually pared back a bit.

‘Introduce them by trialling small amounts gradually,’ Ingrid advised. ‘The results will take time. Do not expect overnight miracles, be patient!’

Remember, your skin journey is a marathon, not a sprint with the magic word being ‘consistency’ according to Ingrid.

‘Be guided by a professional and tweak your routine based on your age and skin needs.’

So, if you’ve been wondering whether it’s time to up your skincare game, I hope this guide has helped just a little bit so you can go forth and serum like a pro.

And as I like to say, your future is in your hands… and on your face.