Acids in skincare sound terrifying – but here’s why they’re the secret to your best skin EVER when used correctly: POLISHED with Elise Wilson

Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where FEMAIL’s qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don’t have to.

If you’ve ever wandered into the skincare aisle and found yourself staring blankly at a label that reads ‘contains 5% AHA/BHA/PHA’ and thought, is this a face serum or a maths problem? I feel you.

As a long-time beauty editor, I’ve spent years trialling every lotion, potion and peel under the sun, and still, the word acid used to send a small chill down my spine.

Isn’t acid what they used in that scene in Alien when it burned through the floor? Why would I willingly put that on my face?

And who decided skincare should sound like chemistry class anyway? We shouldn’t need a degree in molecular biology just to get our glow on.

Throw in the endless TikTok tutorials, conflicting advice, and terms like ‘chemical exfoliant’ and ‘skin cycling’ and it’s enough to make anyone break out in stress-induced hives.

But here’s the thing, acids (in the skincare world, at least) are not terrifying, bubbling test tubes of doom.

They’re actually some of the most effective, transformative ingredients in modern skincare.

When used correctly, they can clear breakouts, fade pigmentation, smooth out fine lines and give your skin the kind of glow usually reserved for celebrities with suspiciously ‘natural’ complexions.

But, and it’s a big but, when used incorrectly, they can leave your face red, raw, and on a first-name basis with your barrier repair cream.

The problem is most people have no idea what these acids are, what they do, or how the hell to use them without causing a skin tantrum.

I’ve lost count of how many friends have messaged me in a panic saying, ‘I used the red peel from TikTok and now I look like a tomato. Help!’

To which I have laughed, and then like the good friend I am, passed on my dermatologist’s number ASAP.

So, to cut through the confusion (and save your epidermis), I’ve called in an expert for reinforcement.

Skincare guru, dermal therapist and founder of Fresh Face Skin, Amelia Goff, knows acids inside and out – and has broken them down in a way that finally makes sense.

Below, she’s decoded the chaos in an easy-to-understand explainer of how acids work, and why so many people are using them completely wrong.

Acids (in the skincare world, at least) are in fact, not terrifying. They’re actually some of the most effective, transformative ingredients in modern skincare to clear breakouts, fade pigmentation, smooth out fine lines and give your skin that A-list glass-like glow

Let’s start with the basics. What actually are acids in skincare?

Put simply, they are active ingredients that help exfoliate the skin, either by gently dissolving the glue that holds dead cells on the surface, or by diving deeper into pores to clear congestion.

The idea is to encourage cell turnover and help the skin function more effectively.

‘Skincare acids are originally derived from natural sources like fruits or plants, but are typically lab-created to be nature-identical for stability and safety,’ Amelia told me.

‘Their main function is to lower the skin’s pH to a slightly more acidic level, which prompts the skin to enter a gentle healing phase.’

This, in turn, encourages brighter tone, smoother texture, better hydration, refined pores and fewer breakouts. In other words – they work.

And unlike a physical scrub that can scratch or irritate the skin, acids do their job invisibly and more evenly.

They’ve also become wildly popular because they deliver both instant glow and long-term improvement. A two-for-one in the skincare world.

Pictured: Airyday’s new line up of chemical exfoliants and barrier repair fluids and overnight creams, $41 each, to reveal brighter skin by the morning

How do I know which acid I need?

The key is matching the right acid to your skin concern.

Here’s how Amelia breaks it down:

Acne and congestion? Salicylic and azelaic acids are your go-to.

Dullness or uneven tone? Try lactic or mandelic acid for a glow-up.

Stubborn pigmentation? Glycolic or lactic will help fade dark spots.

Ageing skin? A mix of glycolic and lactic acids can help smooth fine lines.

Sensitive or dry skin? Stick to PHAs like gluconolactone – gentle but effective.

Why does it feel like there are a million different types?

Because there are, and they all do slightly different things.

That’s actually what makes acids so useful. They can be customised to suit your skin type, your goals, and your tolerance.

Here’s where your skincare vocabulary comes in, according to Amelia.

‘Each acid family has a unique structure and benefit profile,’ she said.

‘They absorb at different speeds and depths, depending on their molecular size.’

Sounds great… but can’t they also wreck your skin?

Yes, ‘and that’s where most people go wrong’ Amelia added.

Acids are powerful, but when used incorrectly (or too enthusiastically), they can compromise your skin barrier and lead to dryness, redness, sensitivity, or a hot, stingy mess.

‘Acids are not one-size-fits-all,’ she warned me. ‘Skin barrier health must always come first. If your skin is compromised, acids can set you back.’

The biggest mistake she see’s people make? Going too hard, too fast – especially with high-potency formulas that promise quick results.

When and how should I use acids?

It depends on strength, however Amelia recommends:

Under one per cent: Safe for daily use – usually built into serums for a subtle pH balance.

3-5 per cent: Use 2-3 times a week for exfoliation and support.

5-10 per cent: Once a week as a treatment – this is your skin reset button.

Most acids go on after cleansing and before serums or moisturisers. But check the instructions as brands design their formulas to work a specific way.

Morning or night? And what about SPF?

Low-strength acids can be used in the morning, but only if they’re buffered with hydrating ingredients – and never without SPF.

‘Acids can make your skin more sun-sensitive, so daily protection is non-negotiable.’

Night is usually the best time for stronger acids as your skin is in repair mode, and you’re not battling sun exposure.

Can you mix acids with other actives?

Technically, yes. But unless you know what you’re doing, I wouldn’t.

‘Active skincare is a marathon, not a race,’ Amelia said.

‘Rotate your actives and give your skin time to respond.’

Her ideal routine looks something like this:

AM: Low-strength acid + vitamin C

PM: Alternate between vitamin A (like retinol) and a deeper acid exfoliant once a week

Always: Hydration, barrier support, and SPF

What about professional peels?

In-clinic peels use stronger concentrations and should always be done by a professional.

They come with downtime (peeling, redness, flaking), but can target deeper concerns like melasma, acne scarring or severe congestion.

So there you have it, skincare acids aren’t scary, they’re just a bit science-y.

But they require a little education, a lot of patience, and a solid understanding of your skin’s limits.

When used properly, they can brighten, smooth and transform, just remember ‘less is more – and listen to your skin.

Still not sure? ‘That’s exactly why I created our free online skin consultations,’ Amelia said. ‘A professional can help assess your skin and guide you to the right routine.’

Disclaimer

The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely my own and do not reflect those of any brands or companies mentioned. This content is not sponsored or endorsed in any way.

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