TikTok ‘skinfluencers’ are touting CARROTS as the ultimate superfood for glowy, plump, radiant skin. But what’s the truth about the controversial trend? Here’s the Mail’s ultimate guide to ‘edible skincare’
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If you’re plugged in to social media you may have seen a trend where people encourage others to ‘eat your retinoids’ and consume huge amounts of carrots.
The theory is that carrots are high in beta-carotene, which the body converts into vitamin A, with skincare benefits comparable to those of retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is a derivative of vitamin A, which is one of the most studied ingredients in skincare. Retinoic acid treatments – notably tretinoin, a prescription-only drug – are recognised for their ability to improve skin tone and texture.
Tretinoin in particular is highly regarded as a treatment for everything from acne to signs of ageing.
There are also over-the-counter versions, such as retinol and retinal, which are converted to retinoic acid in the skin.
According to the TikTokers, eating a lot of carrots – high in beta-carotene, nature’s retinoic acid equivalent – can give similar results.
‘However, while carrots contain a lot of beta-carotene, only a very small percentage would be converted to retinoic acid,’ says Dr Susannah Fraser, a consultant dermatologist based in Edinburgh.
‘Whilst a balanced diet with plenty of fruit and veg is great for the skin and health in general, I don’t think you could get the same effect as topical retinoids by ingesting beta carotene-rich foods.
‘In fact, one of the main side-effects of consuming too many carrots is not improved skin but a condition called carotenaemia, where your skin goes orange.’
Dr Thivi Maruthappu, a London-based dermatologist and nutritionist, is the author of the book Skin Food
However, the concept of ‘edible’ skincare – ingredients usually found in topical skincare that are now popping up in oral supplements – has caught on, joining the booming market of beauty supplements (estimated to be worth $3.96 billion, or £2.95 billion) offering a quicker, easier fix to consumers.
‘Broadly speaking, the benefits the skin gets from vitamins and nutrients, whether through topical skincare or diet, is similar,’ says Dr Thivi Maruthappu, a London-based dermatologist and nutritionist, and author of the book Skin Food. However, she points out that it’s not really possible to directly compare topical and oral doses, as the way in which the body processes them is different.
‘Topically applied products tend to impact the upper layers of the skin, whereas dietary nutrients will impact all layers of the skin including the deeper layers,’ she says.
But, she adds: ‘You can’t “out-supplement” a poor diet or the absence of an effective skincare routine. There is no point taking lots of supplements if you’re still smoking, not wearing SPF, or eating a diet high in processed foods, excess sugar and alcohol.’
We asked her to assess some of the latest ‘edible’ skincare options on the market.
ORAL DROPS
Beauty Dropz Edible Skincare Retinol, 60ml, £14.99, boots.com
CLAIM: ‘A delicious berry-flavoured serum containing retinol, which promotes cell turnover and collagen production to reduce fine lines and improve skin texture.’
Squeeze two pipettes of liquid (made with ‘vitamin A compound’) under the tongue and hold for 15-20 seconds, then swallow.
EXPERT VERDICT: ‘Most of this is water, glycerine, sweeteners and flavourings – in fact there’s more preservative in this product than there is vitamin A,’ says Dr Maruthappu.
‘While the maker claims that two pipettes will give you 800mcg of vitamin A [RDA for women is 600mcg and the NHS recommends not exceeding 1,500mcg], the form of vitamin A in this product – retinyl palmitate – is a derivative that requires multiple conversions to form retinoic acid. The effect of topical retinol is likely to far supersede this oral version.’
She points out that while vitamin A, in the form of retinol, is excellent for skin, getting the levels that you need via a tablet could be problematic.
‘Topical ingredients can often be used at a higher concentration than in oral supplements – which can also run the risk of having unwanted side-effects to other organs. Vitamin A is digested in the intestine and stored in the liver where, in excess, it can cause liver toxicity.’
As for this particular supplement? ‘I would not bother with it,’ Dr Maruthappu says.
GUMMIES
CLAIM: ‘A convenient, tasty way to top up your hyaluronic acid’, which is known for its moisture-retaining properties. Consume two gummies daily, providing 100mg hyaluronic acid.
EXPERT VERDICT: ’Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the skin where it helps to hydrate the skin through its ability to bind water to itself,’ says Dr Maruthappu.
‘But the data for hyaluronic acid taken orally is minimal at best.
‘In fact, the two papers that the maker cites don’t reference oral supplementation of it at all, just its role in skin and when applied as a serum.
‘Perhaps most importantly, the ingredients list shows these are mostly sugar, which is known for having an ageing effect on skin because of the way in which sugar stiffens youth-giving proteins such as collagen and elastin, leading to lines and sagging.’
DROPS INTO DRINKS
Vivid Edible Skincare Niacinamide+, 50ml, £14.99, vividedibleskincare.com
CLAIM: Peachy Punch-flavoured. Contains retinol and niacinamide ‘which strengthens the skin barrier, reduces the appearance of pores and evens out skin tone’, as well as turmeric ‘for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties’ and vitamin D for ‘cell growth and repair’.
Mix one and a half pipettes into a beverage or food daily. Each serving contains 16mg of niacinamide.
EXPERT VERDICT: According to Dr Maruthappu, ‘niacinamide is a B vitamin and in topical skincare is a multitasker that can help with hydration, pigmentation and texture.
‘There is some evidence that niacinamide supplements could help prevent skin cancer in people who are at risk, at a dose of 500mg twice daily – far higher than the 16mg that you’ll get from this supplement. There’s no added advantage to having it in a liquid supplement and the other ingredients are present in negligible amounts.’
TABLETS
CLAIM: ‘Each tablet is infused with collagen, to boost skin elasticity, and zinc, to reduce inflammation – as well as glycerin, ceramide and hyaluronic acids for deep hydration.’
EXPERT VERDICT: ‘There is some supportive evidence for collagen peptide supplements in general, with doses of 2,500-5,000mg per day the typical efficacious dose,’ says Dr Maruthappu.
‘But these studies are largely manufacturer-funded – and a review of the research that compared results from funded and non-funded studies actually found no significant supporting evidence for collagen supplements in changing skin hydration, wrinkle depth or elasticity in the independent, unfunded studies.
‘However, I have looked at these individual unfunded studies and the majority did show improvements in skin hydration and elasticity, but when the results were collated for the review, they did not reach significance.
‘Personally, I think some people do see benefits from taking collagen supplements.
‘The theory is that when the body recognises fragments of collagen in the bloodstream it is prompted to generate more, which is then distributed throughout the body – including to the skin.
‘But in this instance the dose of peptides is lower than used in published studies (1g compared with 2.5-5g) – and therefore, less likely to be of benefit.
‘The oher ingredients here are essential for skin health, but there is no indication of the doses and how they relate to the recommended daily amount – so it’s impossible to judge if they would give any skin benefits.’
