EMPATH is the Charli xcx-approved label giving wardrobe staples a sexy edge

“She’s a little sexy, a little strange, never too put together.” That’s how designer Emily Arakawa describes the EMPATH girl. It’s a fitting portrayal for the LA-based label she founded in 2021, where slouchy knits, washed-out earthy colours and slightly undone silhouettes give wardrobe staples a sexy edge.

Since launching during the pandemic, the label has picked up a growing roster of fans, from KATSEYE and Kylie Jenner to Anya Taylor-Joy and Charli xcx, who has returned to the label again and again, most recently for her 34th birthday. “I love that Charli has ended up incorporating so many of our styles in her personal wardrobe,” Arakawa says. “The custom look we made was initially for a performance. I had no idea she would end up wearing it for her birthday, but that honestly felt so much more special and personal.”

Many of EMPATH’s visual references can be traced back to Arakawa’s upbringing in Japan. There she spends her weekends in Harajuku, Shibuya and Jingumae, trying on outfits and falling in love with the city’s subcultures. “For years, I also had these recurring dreams where I’d go on shopping sprees and discover troves of the most beautiful clothes, only to wake up shocked and horrified that none of it was real.” The dreams followed her through college and her corporate job, only stopping once she started EMPATH.

Below, we talk about the references behind the brand, the making of that xcx-approved look, and what to expect next from the label.

Hey Emily – why did you choose to call your brand EMPATH?

Emily Arakawa: I came up with the name when I was around 15, over a decade before I eventually started EMPATH. I liked that it had a piece of me in it – ‘Em’ is what most of my friends call me, so it always felt personal. I also loved how it sounded in Japanese (エンパス), and at the time, ‘empath’ wasn’t nearly as widely used a word as it is today – I wanted a single word that felt just as memorable and impactful.

Charli xcx is basically a regular customer now! How did you first start working with her, and how did that lead to her custom birthday look?

Emily Arakawa: [Charli’s stylist] Chris Horan reached out to pull some looks for her album press tour and also inquired about making some custom looks for her upcoming performances. They ended up dressing Charli in our Willow Hooded Dress and Uzu Dress in London, as well as commissioning the custom outfit.

I love that Charli has ended up incorporating so many of our styles in her personal wardrobe. The custom look we made was initially for a performance, so I had no idea she would end up wearing it for her birthday, but that honestly felt so much more special and personal.

What other cultural references are on the mood board?

Emily Arakawa: One of my favourite films aesthetically is The Pillow Book for the fashion, set design, and colour palette. There is a simple shift dress worn in one of the final scenes which inspired my Sui Silk Dress. I love the minimalism movement, especially Dirk Bikkembergs SS04 and Norbert Schoerner’s 90s Prada campaigns. I’m drawn to the textural rawness and grunge quality of Japanese archival brands like Le Grand Bleu and If Six Was Nine.

What’s your background in fashion and what was your journey into the industry?

Emily Arakawa: Other than my childhood DIY fashion projects, heavy shopaholic tendencies and a handful of fashion PR and marketing internships in college, I had no formal training or education in fashion or design. I actually went to business school, where I studied entrepreneurship and marketing.

As a first-generation immigrant to the US, my childhood dream of working in fashion had to take a back seat for several years after graduating. I think a lot of people don’t realize that when you move to the US without a green card or citizenship, you can’t necessarily just pursue whatever career path you want – there are so many visa-related hurdles to navigate.

I wasn’t able to legally work in the industry in the way I wanted to, so starting my own business became the only path I could find to pursue my passion.

How would you describe the brand to a stranger you met on a night out?

Emily Arakawa: A little undone but put together. Sleek, sexy sensual clothes that you will want to live in.

Who is the EMPATH muse? 

Emily Arakawa: She’s a little sexy, a little strange, never too put together. Has very niche tastes and interests, big dreams and aspirations, and cares about her impact in the world. She has an effortless quality to her, very model off-duty, without having to be a model.

If you could dress anyone, who would it be?

Emily Arakawa: I love Gabbriette’s style, she is the ultimate EMPATH girl in my opinion. I would also love to dress Rosalía and María Zardoya from The Marías.

What fashion designers inspire you?

Emily Arakawa: I love the delicate rawness of Ann Demeulemeester. The drama and emotion of Alexander McQueen’s work. Martin Margiela’s way of finding beauty in imperfections and the unconventional. Lastly I love the understated sensuality and minimalism of Helmut Lang.

What’s the goal for EMPATH?

Emily Arakawa: I want to keep building EMPATH into a world that feels entirely its own. To be able to keep making clothes I’m excited about, work with people I admire, and hopefully create pieces that people hold onto for a really long time. I’d love to do more collaborations and venture into new categories and I’d also love to create more custom looks and have the opportunity to make really special, one-of-a-kind pieces.