Hotel review: Dunas de Formentera, Formentera, Spain

There’s something undeniably special about arriving somewhere that can’t be reached by plane. After a half-hour ferry from Ibiza, Formentera immediately feels different – quieter, slower and wonderfully untouched. Renowned for its turquoise waters, long stretches of white sand and laid-back, hippy-chic atmosphere, it’s a world away from the beach clubs and late nights of its larger neighbour.

Hidden amongst the protected sand dunes of Migjorn Beach on the island’s southern coast, Dunas de Formentera embraces that same understated philosophy. With just 45 rooms connected by wooden boardwalks weaving through the dunes, it feels less like a traditional resort and more like a collection of beautifully designed beach houses scattered across the landscape.

Created by Palma-based studio Antonio Obrador, every element has been carefully considered to complement its surroundings. A palette of sandy neutrals runs throughout, while natural materials including jute, linen, terracotta, stucco and warm wood create spaces that feel effortlessly Mediterranean.

From the moment I arrived, the pace noticeably shifted. I was greeted with chilled towels and water before being whisked through the resort by buggy, passing woven rattan seating areas, carefully curated coffee table books and pine trees swaying in the sea breeze. Within minutes, I had already forgotten about my inbox.

The rooms

I stayed in one of the Panoramic Suites, where the interiors continue the hotel’s relaxed, earthy aesthetic. Soft beiges and warm greys dominate, punctuated by subtle blush-pink accents in the striped headboard, terrazzo bedside lamps and scatter cushions.

The king-size bed faces directly towards the terrace, allowing the Mediterranean to become the focal point of the room. It’s one of those spaces that encourages you to leave the doors open from morning until night, letting the sea air drift inside.

There are plenty of thoughtful touches throughout. Traditional diving equipment has been framed as artwork, rope replaces the standard plastic ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign, while the spacious bathroom features a walk-in rainfall shower, heated toilet seat and a generous vanity that comfortably accommodated both mine and my partner’s toiletries.

Rather than overwhelming guests with unnecessary technology, the room encourages you to switch off. There’s no television, but honestly, I never missed it. Instead, I found myself spending far more time on the terrace overlooking the dunes, armed with a bag of Bonilla a la Vista crisps from the minibar and watching the light change across the sea.

Practical details haven’t been overlooked either. Robes, slippers, beach towels, a woven beach bag, mosquito repellent, a Babyliss hairdryer and even a yoga mat all come as standard – the kind of additions you don’t realise you’ll appreciate until you need them.

Food and drink

The hotel’s single restaurant, Caliu, sits beside the infinity pool beneath a canopy of pine trees, making every meal feel like an occasion.

Breakfast is entirely à la carte, but begins with a generous basket of still-warm pastries arriving at the table before you’ve even ordered. Coffee and freshly squeezed juice follow shortly after, while the menu covers everything from tomato toast with local cheeses and cured meats to perfectly cooked free-range eggs, whether scrambled, poached, Benedict or folded into fluffy omelettes.

Those with a sweeter tooth will find it difficult to resist the açai bowls or thick Greek yoghurt topped with seasonal fruit.

Although lunch at Caliu is equally tempting, I’d recommend venturing just a few minutes down the beach to Chiringuito KM11. Unaffiliated with the hotel, this relaxed beach bar serves exactly what you crave after a morning in the sun – fresh salads, Spanish tortillas, sandwiches, tapas and crisp fries best enjoyed with an ice-cold Coke Zero.

Come evening, however, Caliu truly comes into its own.

As the sun begins to dip, the poolside bar becomes one of the best spots on the island to watch the sunset. My Aperol Spritz seemed to perfectly mirror the orange-pink sky unfolding behind it – one of those moments that’s impossible not to photograph.

Dinner begins with warm bread, aioli and giant olives arriving almost immediately, while the menu celebrates fresh produce from both land and sea. Highlights included delicate butterfly anchovies in olive oil, creamy burrata paired with rich salmorejo and beautifully grilled lobster cooked over the brasa grill.

If you only save room for one dessert, make it the signature Dunas flan.

Facilities

The infinity pool is undoubtedly the heart of the hotel. Overlooking the shimmering Mediterranean, it’s lined with neatly prepared loungers complete with towels, umbrellas and side tables, while the bar sits only a few steps away should another drink be required.

That said, it’s difficult to choose between spending the day poolside or wandering directly onto Migjorn Beach, which the hotel accesses via wooden walkways through the dunes.

The concierge also goes well beyond the usual recommendations. Foldable beach chairs, parasols, snorkelling equipment, picnic blankets and board games can all be delivered to your room with a quick phone call, making beach days remarkably effortless.

For anyone wanting to stay active, there’s a compact 24-hour gym equipped with treadmills, spin bikes and free weights, alongside a library of on-demand Pilates classes. Using the yoga mat already waiting in my room, I could easily have squeezed in a quick session overlooking the dunes, although I have to admit relaxing on the terrace usually won.

What to do nearby

One of the best things about Dunas is its location. Sitting on the quieter side of the island means many of Formentera’s most scenic cycling routes begin almost at your doorstep.

The concierge arranged electric bikes for us, and it quickly became one of the highlights of the trip. The gentle ride towards La Mola Lighthouse takes around 45 minutes to an hour, winding through pine forests, quiet roads and dramatic coastal scenery before reaching one of the island’s most iconic viewpoints.

If you’re looking for a change of pace, Dunas’ sister property, Gecko Beach Club, is also well worth a visit. Day passes include access to its pool, beach loungers and Balinese beds, making it an easy way to spend an afternoon with cocktails in hand and your feet in the sand.

Beyond the beaches, there’s plenty more to explore. The famous La Mola Hippy Market takes place every Wednesday and Sunday from late afternoon, while wine lovers should make time for a tasting at Bodega Terramoll, where organic vineyard tours showcase some of the island’s best local labels.

Or, if you’d rather leave the planning to someone else, the hotel can organise everything from private boat trips through hidden coves to sunset horseback rides along the coast.

Rates start from around £328 per night. For more information, or to book, visit dunasdeformentera.com.