Leo Prothmann AW2522 Images
Amongst a crowded field of fashion avatars, the horse-girl-meets-high-goth isn’t one we often come across – but if we did, she’d probably be wearing Leo Prothmann. For much of his practice, the London-based designer combines the sartorial codes of rural equestrianism with the jagged edges of modern-day style. Wellington boot waders are given vertiginous platforms while swelling bombers have protective leather fronts; houndstooth trousers poke from the hem of a glamorous duster coat, and a wraparound driving apron is reimagined as a felted maxi skirt. While other horsey collections claim to send up the class dynamics of equestrianism (with little interrogation), Prothmann’s more sincere take feels grounded in the actual reality of the vocation, remade into a modern uniform.
“A lot of my inspiration comes from my equestrian career and my countryside upbringing in Spain,” says the designer, in a conversation over email. “Heavy use of leather, durability, and workwear references are at the core.” Born in Munich in 1997, Prothmann’s family moved to Mallorca before he was one, where he began riding horses at four, and competing in professional show jumping at 14. After another stint in Berlin finishing high school, Prothmann landed in his dream city at 21, enrolling at the London College of Fashion for a bachelor’s degree in womenswear design.
After graduation, in the summer of 2023, the dark lord of fashion himself slid into Prothmann’s DMs with a proposition. Scrolling on Instagram, Rick Owens had spotted some leather platform heels from Prothmann’s graduate collection, a pair that had a striking kinship with Owens’ own Kiss boots. The heels ended up in the US designer’s AW24 men’s collection Porterville, and they clearly went down well – Prothmann was invited back for a second collaboration, designing the buckled leather chaps we saw at AW25’s Concordians. “I’ve admired Rick Owens’ work for so long,” Prothmann says. “So to have him notice my designs and initiate a conversation was incredibly meaningful.”
Below, we chat to the rising star about his equestrian roots, working with Rick Owens, and the fashion holy grail he’s yet to get his hands on.
Hey Leo! Can you tell me about the ethos behind the Leo Prothmann brand?
Leo Prothmann: My ethos is about making people feel strong in the clothes they wear, and encouraging a long-lasting relationship with high-quality products – to buy less, but buy better, and love it longer. A lot of my inspiration comes from my equestrian career and my countryside upbringing in Spain – heavy use of leather, durability, and workwear references are at the core. I love the mix of dirt and glamour. Equestrian sport is super polished and glamorous on the surface, but at the end of the day, you’re still cleaning horse shit. Translating that aesthetic into an urban landscape like London creates the tension that really informs my work.
And what inspired the latest collection?
Leo Prothmann: AW25 FINCA is about winter at my parents’ house in Spain. It’s this strange in-between season – not fully warm, not quite cold, not dry but not wet either. That sense of limbo really shaped the textures and palette. I drew from the sunburnt landscapes around me: washed-out greens, scorched browns, ginger tones, and stone shades, basically the colours of home. What struck me most was the post-summer burning of the landscapes, that phase where nature is recovering. There’s something quiet and powerful in that kind of regeneration, and I wanted to reflect that in the clothes.
The dinners at Rick and Michèle’s place after the shows are just the best. Such a fun and special part of the experience – Leo Prothmann
How did your collaborations with Rick Owens come about? When did he first reach out?
Leo Prothmann: Rick first reached out via DM in the summer of 2023 after seeing my DIY metal-heeled boots on Instagram, which I had created for my graduate collection mini-show. It was a surreal moment. I’ve admired Rick’s work for so long, so to have him notice my designs and initiate a conversation was incredibly meaningful.
What was it like working with Rick and the team?
Leo Prothmann: Working with Rick and his team has been one of the most inspiring experiences of my career so far. Rick has such a calm and focused energy, and engaging with that has really helped me sharpen my own vision, both in what I want to create and the direction I want to pursue. It’s been truly invaluable. And honestly, the dinners at Rick and Michèle’s place after the shows are just the best. Such a fun and special part of the experience.
What’s a fashion holy grail you’ve yet to get your hands on?
Leo Prothmann: Alexander McQueen armadillo heel from the SS10 Plato’s Atlantis show.
What’s your ghost outfit?
Leo Prothmann: Preferably shorts and chaps, a kimono-sleeve t-shirt, the shell bomber jacket from my recent collection, a pair of Leo Prothmann x Rick Owens biker ‘LP’ boots, and a Steven Jones x Matty Bovan mirrored cone hat from his D&G supported show in Milan.
Money is no object – where are you staging your next catwalk show?
Leo Prothmann: At my home in Spain. That would be the ultimate show, to fly everyone in and show them where the inspiration for the clothes has come from.
Did you have a freakum outfit growing up?
Leo Prothmann: In kindergarten, I wore tiger print tights and a t-shirt – I was that weirdo.
Which iconic supermodel is opening your next show?
Leo Prothmann: Not a model, but Honey Dijon. She’s one of my favourite DJs and I would die for her to walk my show someday.
What’s the last meme you saved?
Leo Prothmann: A chaotic meme – basically my friends and me after a long show day.
Which celebrity are you dying to dress and why?
Leo Prothmann: Lady Gaga for sure, she just has the ultimate attitude.
Let your predictive text finish this sentence: I am a designer because I love___, but people don’t know that I am actually___.
Leo Prothmann: I am a designer because I love ambiguity, but people don’t know that I am actually very normal.
You’re trapped in a lift with your celebrity crush – what are you wearing?
Leo Prothmann: A Zegna suit and a pair of biker platform heels.
If you could only wear one label for the rest of your life, which would it be?
Leo Prothmann: Leo Prothmann.
Prothmann’s AW25 collection is available for pre-order at www.leoprothmann.com.
