World Cup fever hits India as Kolkata lane transforms into dazzling ‘Fifa Gully’

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While cricket remains India’s national passion, a vibrant display of global football fervour has erupted in one corner of the country to show support for the ongoing World Cup.

Kolkata, long considered the heartland of Indian football and home to three historic clubs – Mohun Bagan, East Bengal, and Mohammedan Sporting – has transformed the unassuming Fakir Chakraborty Lane in its Beniatola area into the dazzling ‘Fifa Gully’.

Visitors are greeted at the entrance of this barely 100-metre stretch by giant cut-outs of Cristiano Ronaldo, displaying his six-pack abs, and Lionel Messi, captured in a moment of goal celebration. Inside, Neymar completes the iconic trio, while the likes of Kylian Mbappe and Vinicius Jr adorn vibrant murals.

“Kolkata is the mecca of football,” remarked Sourav Ghosal, a 23-year-old MBA student who grew up in the neighbourhood. “This is the heritage. That’s what Kolkata is all about.”

Football enthusiasts in Kolkata (Reuters)

The phenomenon began during the 2014 World Cup with simple newspaper clippings pasted on walls. Over the years, it has evolved into elaborate murals, portraits, and decorations celebrating football’s biggest names.

Residents crafted the display in their free time, working whenever they could find the moment. Some painted portraits of their heroes, while others hung bunting of team flags and erected the superstar cut-outs.

“We have never taken any type of sponsorship,” said Renesh Roy, a member of the Fifa Gully collective. “It’s for the love of football.”

Despite India never having played in a World Cup, and the men’s team ranking a modest 138th globally, local fans have transferred their allegiance to powerhouses like Brazil and Argentina.

Jerseys, often replicas, of Messi, Ronaldo, and Neymar are as ubiquitous here as in any European or South American city. The steady stream of curious visitors has turned the otherwise nondescript lane into a popular selfie spot.

“It’s a small lane in a small area in Kolkata,” Debajyoti Dutta, another Fifa Gully collective member, stated. “It’s a matter of pride for us.”

Messi, Ronaldo, Neymar, Mbappe and Vinicius Jr are all still involved in the World Cup as the tournament moves towards a thrilling climax.

Argentina will try to book their place in the last-16 when they face Cape Verde on Friday night, while Portugal are through to face Spain for a place in the quarter-finals and Brazil will play Norway.

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