15-minute routine: How to beat acne WITHOUT medication, revealed by a top skincare specialist
Acne may be one of the most common skin problems in Britain—affecting around three million adults, according to NHS figures—but for many, it can feel impossible to get under control.
Kimberley Medd, Head of Clinic at Face The Future, one of the UK’s leading skincare firms
And experts now say that the endless, expensive 10-step routines promoted on social media may be doing more harm than good.
‘Acne is one of the most common skin concern, whatever age you are, but it can feel overwhelming to manage if you don’t know where to start,’ says Kimberley Medd, Head of Clinic at Face The Future, one of the UK’s leading skincare firms.
Acne develops when hair follicles become blocked with oil (sebum) and dead skin cells, creating an environment where bacteria thrive and inflammation takes hold.
Hormonal changes, stress and even diet can all play a role.
Women in their 30s and 40s are particularly prone as hormone fluctuations affect oil production, often triggering breakouts along the jawline and chin.
‘For anyone who suffers from acne, you don’t need an elaborate 10-step regime to see results. Less can be more in helping to soothe and heal the skin.’
Medd says that a focused, consistent routine—taking no more than 15 minutes morning and evening—can make a real difference.
Acne may be one of the most common skin problems in Britain—affecting around three million adults, according to NHS figures—but for many, it can feel impossible to get under control
15-minute acne routine, morning and evening
For the morning routine, Medd recommends keeping things simple and consistent—rather than bombarding the skin with too many active ingredients.
‘Start with a non-foaming, pH-balanced cleanser to remove overnight oil build-up without stripping the skin,’ she says.
‘Look for soothing ingredients like glycerine or niacinamide.
I really recommend the CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser with Salicylic Acid & Niacinamide for Blemish-Prone Skin.’
Next, apply a targeted treatment: ‘If you’re prone to breakouts, use a serum with salicylic acid to keep pores clear or azelaic acid to calm redness and prevent blocked follicles.
‘Apply a thin layer only where needed. The SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment is a great option.’
Hydration is crucial, even for oily skin. ‘A lightweight, oil-free gel or lotion with hyaluronic acid, like the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream, will hydrate without clogging pores.’
‘Start with a non-foaming, pH-balanced cleanser to remove overnight oil build-up without stripping the skin,’ says Kimberley Medd
If you’re prone to breakouts, use a serum with salicylic acid to keep pores clear or azelaic acid to calm redness and prevent blocked follicles
A lightweight, oil-free gel or lotion with hyaluronic acid, like the Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Gel Cream, will hydrate without clogging pores
Finish with SPF. ‘This is a daily non-negotiable for all skin types. Choose a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
‘For acne-prone skin look for a fluid or gel formula labelled as non-comedogenic. The La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Oil Control Fluid SPF50+ For Oily and Blemish-Prone Skin 50ml is very good for acne affected skin.
‘Sun protection prevents post-blemish marks from worsening and supports healthy skin repair.’
In the evening, Medd suggests a different regime: ‘This is especially important if you’ve been wearing SPF or makeup,’ she says.
‘Start with a gentle oil or micellar cleanser, like the BIOEFFECT Micellar Cleansing Water, followed by your regular morning cleanser to deeply clean pores.’
Next comes an active treatment. ‘Evening is the best time to apply retinoids such as Pharmaceris T – Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream, which encourages cell turnover, prevents new blockages and helps with marks left behind by acne.
‘Introduce retinoids slowly, two to three nights a week, then increase as tolerated.’
Finally, moisturise. ‘Lock in hydration with a simple, non-comedogenic cream.
A daily SPF is ‘non-negotiable for all skin types’ says Medd. Choose a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. For acne-prone skin look for a fluid or gel formula labelled as non-comedogenic
In the evening, start with a gentle oil or micellar cleanser, like the BIOEFFECT Micellar Cleansing Water, followed by your regular morning cleanser to deeply clean pores
Evening is the best time to apply retinoids such as Pharmaceris T – Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream, which prevents new blockages and helps with marks left behind by acne
Finally, moisturise. ‘Lock in hydration with a simple, non-comedogenic cream. Try something like the Minimalist Ceramides 0.3% + Madecassoside Moisturiser
‘A formula containing ceramides will help support the skin barrier, which can often be compromised by acne treatments.
‘Try something like the Minimalist Ceramides 0.3% + Madecassoside Moisturiser.’
Medd adds: ‘If you are acne-prone, limit harsh scrubs or overly drying products as they often worsen inflammation.
‘Also make sure to wash pillowcases regularly and avoid touching your face throughout the day. Consistency is key. Products need time—usually six to eight weeks—to show visible improvement.’
When skincare alone isn’t enough
If acne doesn’t improve after six to eight weeks of consistent home care, NHS guidance advises moving up what’s known as the treatment ladder—a structured, stepwise approach that helps avoid overuse of strong medication while ensuring patients get the help they need.
Step 1: Topical treatments
Doctors usually begin with gels or creams containing benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids such as adapalene, or topical antibiotics such as clindamycin.
If acne doesn’t improve after six to eight weeks of consistent home care, NHS guidance advises moving up what’s known as the treatment ladder
These are applied directly to the affected areas to reduce inflammation and bacteria.
Sometimes, combination products (for example, benzoyl peroxide with adapalene) are prescribed to target multiple causes of acne at once.
Step 2: Oral medication
If topical therapy fails after 12 weeks, the next stage is oral treatment.
For women, this often means hormonal therapy—such as the combined oral contraceptive pill or spironolactone—which helps to regulate hormone-related breakouts.
For men and women, short courses of oral antibiotics may be used to reduce bacterial overgrowth and inflammation, though these should be taken for a limited time to prevent antibiotic resistance.
Step 3: Isotretinoin (Roaccutane)
Reserved for severe or cystic acne that has not responded to other treatments, isotretinoin is a powerful oral retinoid that dramatically reduces sebum production.
It’s highly effective but requires close monitoring for potential side effects, including dry skin and, rarely, mood changes.
Step 4: Adjunct therapies
For persistent or scarring acne, dermatologists may recommend light or laser therapy, chemical peels or microneedling, often alongside prescription treatments to speed up results and improve skin texture.
The truth about diet and acne
For years, experts dismissed a link between diet and acne—but new research suggests what you eat can make a difference.
The clearest evidence points to high-glycaemic foods such as white bread, sweets and sugary drinks, which cause hormone spikes that increase oil production and inflammation.
A 2020 review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found people who ate more refined carbs were more than twice as likely to have acne.
Some large studies also link skimmed milk to breakouts—possibly due to naturally occurring hormones—though the evidence for full-fat dairy or chocolate remains weak.
Doctors say an anti-inflammatory, low-GI diet rich in vegetables, whole grains and omega-3 fats may help calm the skin, but stress that food is rarely the main cause of acne.
