New potatoes arrive without the fanfare of May’s other seasonal highlights (think juicy stems of asparagus or the first sweet peas bursting from their pods), but they still rank highly on a list of things to eat at this time of year. The most celebrated, of course, are Jersey Royals, but please don’t overlook other ‘earlies’ from Cornwall, Wales and Scotland, which can also be extremely tasty.
Jerseys are small, kidney-shaped potatoes with the lightest whisper of papery skin. Traditionally grown in sandy soil enriched by local seaweed, they have a distinctively earthy and slightly nutty flavour. To enjoy them at their best, buy them, if you can, with a little soil still clinging and give them a light wash in cold water, taking care not to remove too much of the delicate skin.
They don’t require fancy dressing. Simply boiling – starting them in a large pan of cold, salted water – and then tossing with a little butter and flaky salt is an exemplary way to treat them. If you fancy something slightly more adventurous, this week’s recipe sees them crushed and roasted until their skins just catch and turn golden, then served with soured cream and briny cornichons for a very smart take on a potato salad.
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Pour 2 tbsp olive oil into a large roasting tin and place in the oven to heat up for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the Jersey Royals in a large saucepan and cover with cold water, adding a pinch of salt. Set over a high heat, bring to the boil, then simmer for 10-12 minutes, or until just cooked.
Drain, then lightly crush each potato with the base of a mug. Tip into the tin of hot oil, turning to coat. Sprinkle with 2 tbsp of the cornichon liquor, season with sea salt and black pepper and roast for about 15 minutes, turning halfway, until golden in places. Leave to cool for 5 minutes.
Spoon the soured cream over the base of a plate, then top with the potatoes. Finely chop the cornichons and sprinkle over the top, along with the dill. A fine accompaniment to grilled salmon, lamb or chicken.
