Every woman who uses retinol must read this. You won’t believe these beauty influencer claims… they’re just so damaging: DR SHEILA NAZARIAN

The $700 billion global beauty industry may be filled with perfectly turned-out, even other-worldly-looking influencers, but it is a realm where science fiction should never outshine facts.

As a board-certified plastic surgeon, I have spent my entire career studying the biology of skin, aging and evidence-based treatments. Skincare isn’t merely about branding and trends – it’s serious medicine. So when misinformation enters the conversation, I have to speak out.

Take recent comments made by beauty entrepreneur Dr Barbara Sturm, who rose to fame a decade ago as the inventor of the ‘vampire facial.’

Since the launch of her eponymous beauty line in 2014, the products have scored influential fans such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Kim Kardashian and Oprah, who was also an early company investor.

In a widely circulated interview with The Wall Street Journal last month, Sturm – a physician trained in orthopedics rather than dermatology – made a series of recommendations about the use of sunscreens and retinoids that fly in the face of established treatment protocols and old–fashioned science.

The response from dermatologists, plastic surgeons and beauty influencers was swift. ‘Barbara Sturm is giving the worst skincare advice,’ declared one beauty commentator on Threads. ‘Crazy,’ deadpanned another on Instagram. 

Sturm’s comments, say many experts, are misleading and potentially harmful – undoing years of public health education around sun protection.

One of Sturm’s most concerning suggestions was that sunscreen need only be used in extreme conditions, such as skiing or when Sturm – who lives in Switzerland – is ‘on top of a mountain.’ In other words, you don’t need to apply sunscreen every day. 

The problem is that Sturm’s advice directly contradicts long–standing scientific findings. I recommend that daily sunscreen use is not optional, it is foundational. 

Ultraviolet radiation is the primary cause of premature aging and a major risk factor for skin cancer. Damage from even incidental exposure-such as walking the dog, driving, or sitting near windows-accumulates over time.

And I’m not alone. Organizations like the American Academy of Dermatology consistently recommend broad–spectrum SPF as a daily essential regardless of weather or season. Skipping sunscreen, as Sturm has suggested, is not a natural approach – it’s a risky one.

Equally troubling are Sturm’s claims about retinol, one of the most extensively –studied ingredients in dermatology, which helps skin look and behave more youthfully. Yet for some reason, Sturm used her Journal interview to claim that retinol, among other ills, causes ‘inflammation’ and makes ‘skin thinner.’ 

Let me be clear: retinol does not thin the skin. In fact, it thickens the deeper layer of the skin known as the dermis, which helps boost collagen production and improve skin texture and tone.

Problems can arise if you use retinol incorrectly. Too high a concentration or too frequent applications can result in irritation, redness, peeling or dryness. This is often misinterpreted as the skin becoming thinner, when it’s simply a sign of overuse. 

This is why a properly trained dermatologist matters – they can easily spot the difference.

There are alternatives to retinol for those who may find it irritating, such as bakuchiol, which I use in my own skincare formulations. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound that mimics many of retinol’s benefits, including collagen stimulation and improved texture. But it’s gentler and less prone to irritation – while better tolerated across a wider range of skin types, including sensitive skin.

Still, when used appropriately, retinol remains one of the most effective tools we have for maintaining youthful, healthy skin and has even been shown in clinical studies to reverse signs of sun damage. In other words, there was a reason so many beauty insiders were outraged by Sturm’s views on retinol – she’s flat-out wrong.

There is nothing inherently bad about innovation or cross-disciplinary thinking. However, when it comes to skin health, expert dermatological training is crucial. And Strum – who recently secured a massive cash infusion from Spanish consumer giant Puig – is revealing the consequences of her limited background.

Consumers deserve transparency about who is giving them advice. A compelling brand story or Hollywood fans does not replace scientific rigor. Sturm’s claims conflict with established science, which is why the pushback was so real.

As both a physician and founder of NazarianSkin, my philosophy is simple, educate first, treat second and always prioritize evidence over hype.