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Inside the iconic Blue Mountains hideaway that’s just had a mega makeover – and the stunning farm-to-table spot worth the winding drive: THE DETOUR

Welcome to The Detour: Your food and travel guide to the best flavours, hidden haunts, insider tips and unforgettable new experiences that reward those who wander off course.

Lilianfels: A Blue Mountains icon, beautifully reimagined 

I’ve visited Lilianfels in Katoomba countless times over the years. It’s always been a nostalgic little slice of mountain magic, but I’ll admit it was starting to feel a little tired by my last stay. 

So when I heard about its multi-million dollar transformation and glossy new chapter as Ardour Lilianfels Blue Mountains, I couldn’t wait to return. 

And wow, what an upgrade. 

Somehow, the redesign gives one of the Blue Mountains’ most iconic stays an elegant new identity without sacrificing the warmth, charm and lived-in character that made it so beloved in the first place. 

Originally built in 1889 as the grand summer residence of Sir Frederick Darley, the heritage-listed estate has long been synonymous with romantic escapes, leisurely lunches and secluded stays overlooking the breathtaking Jamison Valley.

Just 90 minutes from Sydney, the 89-room retreat is the ideal weekender. Add the exceptional hospitality to the mix and it’s hard to fault. 

Somehow, the redesign gives one of the Blue Mountains’ most iconic stays an elegant new identity without sacrificing the warmth, charm and lived-in character that made it so beloved

The stunning new dining space may well be my new favourite hotel buffet in Australia

The stunning new dining space may well be my new favourite hotel buffet in Australia

The redesign by acclaimed interiors studio Luchetti Krelle feels playful, sophisticated and inviting, while the hotel's dining offering has been elevated in a big way

The redesign by acclaimed interiors studio Luchetti Krelle feels playful, sophisticated and inviting, while the hotel’s dining offering has been elevated in a big way

The redesign by acclaimed interiors studio Luchetti Krelle (the team behind Cibaria Manly and Cruise Bar) feels playful, sophisticated and inviting, while the hotel’s dining offering has been massively elevated. 

Inspired by eccentric English garden estates, the team has honoured the property’s rich heritage while injecting a fresh sense of whimsy through bold colours, striking details, statement furnishings and cloud-like bedding. 

At the heart of the hotel sits The Lounge, a stylish new bar serving cocktails, curated wines and elevated comfort food including four-cheese and truffle sliders, grilled prawns, steak frites, Queensland spanner crab brioche and an impressive chef’s charcuterie. 

You’ll also find the hotel’s beautifully refreshed high tea, alongside indulgent new touches designed to make a weekend away feel even more special, from caviar service to a roving cheese experience.

By night, live music and a moody atmosphere transform the space into a sophisticated gathering spot. By day, guests are curled up beside the fire with a book or wandering the gardens with a drink in hand.

Newly appointed Executive Chef Kam McManamey says the culinary offering sits at the heart of Lilianfels’ evolution into an Ardour property.

‘Second to the visual transformation, our refined culinary experience is where Ardour luxury will really be felt by guests,’ he says.

‘The Lounge has been created to become the heartbeat of the hotel. It’s an entirely new atmosphere designed to flow between pre-dinner cocktails, a three-course sit-down meal, or a late-night whiskey.’

The scones were an easy stand-out - the conserve was simply divine and it's safe to say they are heavy-handed on the cream in the best way

The scones were an easy stand-out – the conserve was simply divine and it’s safe to say they are heavy-handed on the cream in the best way

You'll also find the hotel's beautifully refreshed high tea alongside indulgent new touches designed to make a weekend away feel even more special

You’ll also find the hotel’s beautifully refreshed high tea alongside indulgent new touches designed to make a weekend away feel even more special

Elevated comfort food at The Lounge includes four-cheese and truffle sliders, grilled prawns, steak frites, Queensland spanner crab brioche and an impressive chef's charcuterie

Elevated comfort food at The Lounge includes four-cheese and truffle sliders, grilled prawns, steak frites, Queensland spanner crab brioche and an impressive chef’s charcuterie

The estate’s existing restaurants, Miss Lilian and Darley’s Restaurant, continue to welcome guests and locals alike, offering two distinctly different dining experiences across a stay.

Darley’s remains the property’s signature fine dining destination, celebrated for its seasonal local produce and exceptional wine list. Order the lamb.

Then there’s breakfast. 

The stunning new dining space may well be my new favourite hotel buffet in Australia.

Sunlight pours through the windows onto beautifully presented stations overflowing with fresh eggs, whole avocados, gorgeous yoghurts, mountains of fruit and thoughtful little breakfast treats. 

McManamey can often be found chatting with guests, gathering feedback and personally topping up dishes while proudly fine-tuning the offering.

The atmosphere is lively and the service seamless. Oh and the à la carte additions are every bit as impressive, with health bowls, avocado pretzels and moringa pancakes topped with double cream among the highlights. Drool.

The Lounge is the 'heart' of the hotel. By day, guests are curled up beside the fire with a book or wandering the gardens with a drink in hand

The Lounge is the ‘heart’ of the hotel. By day, guests are curled up beside the fire with a book or wandering the gardens with a drink in hand

If it wasn't obvious already, I can't recommend booking a stay highly enough before winter ends

If it wasn’t obvious already, I can’t recommend booking a stay highly enough before winter ends

Lilianfels’ renowned wellness offering has also entered a new era, becoming Èliva – a luxury day spa and wellness destination following the launch of the brand at Ardour Milton Park Bowral and InterContinental Sydney Coogee Beach. 

It’s a spectacular addition, complete with mineral whirlpools, private saunas, steam rooms, premium teas and an exciting menu of treatments. 

If it wasn’t obvious already, I can’t recommend booking a stay highly enough before winter ends. 

There really is nothing quite like a weekend in the Blue Mountains when the temperature drops – and right now, there may be no better place to experience it.

Get snug and enjoy. 

Still the same from the outside yet a whole new world awaits within

Still the same from the outside yet a whole new world awaits within 

Darley's remains the property's signature fine dining destination, celebrated for its seasonal local produce and exceptional wine list

Darley’s remains the property’s signature fine dining destination, celebrated for its seasonal local produce and exceptional wine list

Megalong at LOT101

Around 30 minutes from Lilianfels, tucked away at the end of a long, winding road in the spectacular Megalong Valley, sits one of my favourite dining experiences in the country: Megalong Restaurant at LOT101.

If there was ever a true farm-to-table experience, this is it.

Led by executive chef and owner Colin Barker, the passionate team delivers some of the most memorable food you’ll eat served with a side of top quality hospitality, great fun and friendly banter. 

The restaurant sits among the LOT101 farm, orchards and sprawling vegetable gardens with just 60 seats overlooking the valley’s escarpments and bushland in every direction.

Nearly every vegetable, fruit and herb featured on the $169 per person six-course menu is grown organically on site in gardens guests are welcome to wander through, guided by the farm’s production managers. 

Around 30 minutes from Lilianfels, tucked away at the end of a long, winding road in the spectacular Megalong Valley, sits one of my favourite dining experiences in the country: Megalong Restaurant at LOT101

Around 30 minutes from Lilianfels, tucked away at the end of a long, winding road in the spectacular Megalong Valley, sits one of my favourite dining experiences in the country: Megalong Restaurant at LOT101 

Nearly every vegetable, fruit and herb featured on the $169 per person six-course menu is grown organically on site in gardens guests are welcome to wander through

Nearly every vegetable, fruit and herb featured on the $169 per person six-course menu is grown organically on site in gardens guests are welcome to wander through

This pea and pericon tart was as wonderful as it looks

This pea and pericon tart was as wonderful as it looks 

LOT101’s own cattle and sheep, alongside carefully sourced local produce, complete a menu deeply connected to the land. In fact, about 50 sheep wandered happily past halfway through our lunch. I later discovered that wasn’t supposed to happen. 

Regenerative and organic farming is at the heart of everything here, with each menu shaped entirely by the seasons.

Our meal began with raw vegetables picked moments earlier from the garden before unfolding into course after course of outstanding produce-driven cooking: a delicate pea and pericon tart, Murray cod fish cake with mushroom ketchup and whole cabbage with Kanimbla truffle.

Other standouts included the restaurant’s signature dry-aged duck with spigarello and kumquat, an outstanding lion’s mane mushroom dish and an unforgettable dessert of chicory root, burnt cream and chocolate.

This place is something truly special.

If you find yourself in the Blue Mountains, make the detour. You can thank me later.

I could have eaten several of the Murray cod fish cakes with mushroom ketchup

I could have eaten several of the Murray cod fish cakes with mushroom ketchup 

This lions mane dish was the vegetarian alternative for the famous dry-aged duck. Divine

This lions mane dish was the vegetarian alternative for the famous dry-aged duck. Divine

If you find yourself in the Blue Mountains, make the detour. You can thank me later

If you find yourself in the Blue Mountains, make the detour. You can thank me later

Little Sista: Now that’s a sandwich 

Talk about a find.

On my way home from the Blue Mountains, I made a quick stop in Leura and accidentally stumbled upon one of the best focaccias I’ve eaten all year.

Tucked away on Megalong Street, Little Sista is the new venture from the family behind the much-loved Café Leura.

The menu is centred around handmade focaccia, quality coffee and fresh juices, with vinyl spinning in the background from morning until close.

The standout? Easy.

Dubbed Everything She Wants – this beauty delivers an outrageously good stack of prosciutto, mortadella, sopressa, ham, mozzarella, pesto, sundried tomatoes and rocket, pressed until perfectly crisp

On my way home from the Blue Mountains, I made a quick stop in Leura and accidentally stumbled upon one of the best focaccias I've eaten all year

On my way home from the Blue Mountains, I made a quick stop in Leura and accidentally stumbled upon one of the best focaccias I’ve eaten all year

Tucked away on Megalong Street, Little Sista is the new venture from the family behind the much-loved Café Leura

Tucked away on Megalong Street, Little Sista is the new venture from the family behind the much-loved Café Leura

I recommend pairing it with the house-made lemon iced tea.

If you’re after something heartier, The Grecko layers slow-cooked lamb, tzatziki, feta, peppers and oregano into a sandwich that literally tastes like a Mediterranean holiday.

The secret? Italian-imported sandwich presses that crisp each focaccia without drying it out, somehow keeping the bread crunchy while the fillings stay perfectly fresh. To die for. 

The café itself is tiny, seating just 24 people, but that’s part of its charm. With retro touches, forest-green walls, peach and teal tiles and a soundtrack playing on vinyl, it feels like someone’s cool living room.

I’ll definitely be back. 

Dubbed Everything She Wants - this beauty delivers an outrageously good stack of prosciutto, mortadella, sopressa, ham, mozzarella, pesto, sundried tomatoes and rocket, pressed until perfectly crisp

Dubbed Everything She Wants – this beauty delivers an outrageously good stack of prosciutto, mortadella, sopressa, ham, mozzarella, pesto, sundried tomatoes and rocket, pressed until perfectly crisp

The café itself is tiny, seating just 24 people, but that's part of its charm. With retro touches, forest-green walls, peach and teal tiles and a soundtrack playing on vinyl, it feels more like someone's cool living room, not your average café

The café itself is tiny, seating just 24 people, but that’s part of its charm. With retro touches, forest-green walls, peach and teal tiles and a soundtrack playing on vinyl, it feels more like someone’s cool living room, not your average café

Park St Diner: A Sydney treat

by Cindy Tran 

I discovered Park St. Diner one weekend when I was visiting another restaurant with friends in Sydney’s CBD. After seeing the huge queue, we were keen to check it out the next time we were in the city. 

We arrived at 11.30am just in time for the brunch menu. We waited about 15 minutes before we were seated in a booth – not a bad wait given we were there during the lunchtime rush. From the moment you walk in, it really feels like you’re in an American diner.

The sausage and egg burger I ordered was absolute perfection. The pork sausage was beautifully seasoned, topped with the fluffiest scrambled egg and cheese. The ranch sauce was to die for and it was served with a side of hot sauce, which added the perfect kick. 

The hash browns were a must – they were crispy on the outside, and fluffy on the inside. I usually prefer eating my hash brown on its own but the house sauce it came with seriously took it to another level. 

The sausage and egg burger I ordered was absolute perfection. The pork sausage was beautifully seasoned, topped with the fluffiest scrambled egg and cheese. The ranch sauce was to die for and it was served with a side of hot sauce, which added the perfect kick

The sausage and egg burger I ordered was absolute perfection. The pork sausage was beautifully seasoned, topped with the fluffiest scrambled egg and cheese. The ranch sauce was to die for and it was served with a side of hot sauce, which added the perfect kick

My husband and friend ordered the honey butter giant pancake each. While it hit the spot, they wished they had just ordered one to share because it was quite dense and heavy since it was a deep-pan pancake. However, it was still a crowd favourite and something every table should order. 

We loved it so much that we headed back later that week to try the dinner menu. This time, we made a reservation and were seated as soon as we arrived, walking straight past the long queue. 

What caught my eye during our first visit was the Filet-O-Fish sandwich while my husband ordered the double beef and cheese burger. While waiting for our meals, I noticed almost every table around us ordered exactly what we did. 

The fish burger didn’t disappoint – I’m still thinking about it almost a week later. 

I’ve tried a lot of fish burgers in my life and I can confidently say it’s the best I’ve had. It was served on the softest brioche bun, with American cheese, tartare sauce and the right amount of crunchy lettuce. 

There was extra tartare sauce on the side so I could dip every bite into it. The crust on the fillet was perfectly crisp, while the fish inside was succulent.

What caught my eye during our first visit was the Filet-O-Fish sandwich while my husband ordered the double beef and cheese burger. While waiting for our meals, I noticed almost every table around us ordered exactly what we did

What caught my eye during our first visit was the Filet-O-Fish sandwich while my husband ordered the double beef and cheese burger. While waiting for our meals, I noticed almost every table around us ordered exactly what we did

I'd never heard of Park St. Diner before but I quickly learned that The Grounds of Alexandria is behind this cute spot. I'm surprised there hasn't been much hype about this place because it's one of the best spots to dine in the city at right now

I’d never heard of Park St. Diner before but I quickly learned that The Grounds of Alexandria is behind this cute spot. I’m surprised there hasn’t been much hype about this place because it’s one of the best spots to dine in the city at right now

We also ordered a side of mac and cheese, which came topped with herbed crumbs and fried onion. It was delicious, rich and a great dish to share. One thing I regret not doing was ordering my own side of fries. 

My husband kindly gave me some of his, and they were some of the best French fries I’ve ever eaten. So if you find yourself here, do yourself a favour and order your own fries because they’re too good to share.

I’d never heard of Park St. Diner before but I quickly learned that The Grounds of Alexandria is behind this cute spot. I’m surprised there hasn’t been much hype about this place because it’s one of the best places to dine in the city right now. 

If you’re looking for a brunch spot or need your American food fix, Park St. Diner should be the next place on your list. 

Dine like a chef: Ed Butcher, Head Chef at Bannisters Port Stephens

Ed Butcher, head chef at Rick Stein at Bannisters Port Stephens, has just been announced as part of Chefs in the Vines, a one-day food and wine event taking place at Spicers Guesthouse in the Hunter Valley on Saturday 5 September. Ed will join chefs from Orleana, Circa 1876, éRemo and Restaurant Botanica, with each presenting a signature dish at a live cooking station. For Bannisters, Ed will serve XO Birubi Beach pipis, created especially for the event.

What is your vision for your dish at Chefs in the Vines?

Simple, punchy umami flavours using the best of the local pipis caught by our friend Mark Phelps 

What is your favourite restaurant/café in Aus right now? Why?

I travel regularly to the Gold Coast with my wife and I recently had an amazing meal at Rick Shores in Burleigh Heads. Asian fusion and incredible view make it my favourite place to relax 

Name an ingredient you wish more people cooked with

Blue Mackerel from Ulladulla. Our mates down the coast have amazing access to this and I just wish more people knew about it

What’s the most underrated spot you’ve stumbled upon this year?

Not a hole in the wall but an often overlooked place is the little hand pulled noodle place named Taste of Lanzhou by Lee’s Kitchen 

What’s the best meal you’ve eaten this year?

My best meal this year was all the way back in the UK. I finally had the chance to eat at Rick’s The Seafood restaurant. Bucket list moment

What do you think makes a truly fantastic, memorable restaurant in 2025?

The best places to eat these days for me are the small restaurants where you can really feel the genuine warmth that makes you want to come back

Name a ‘neighbourhood favourite’ venue you will continue to visit for years to come

My local Chinese, Oceanic. A good chef weekend spot

What’s a dish/project/menu of yours that you’re really excited about right now?

Each year we throw the book at it and do wonderful Rick Stein events with the man himself. They are always lots of fun and a real peak of my year

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