Is knowing your undertone the secret to perfectly balanced, sculpted makeup?

The other week, I got a text from a friend: ‘how do I know if I’m cool toned or warm toned?’ They’d fallen into a TikTok black hole of Korean colour analysis videos, and it had them wondering if the makeup they were using was all wrong. It’s a fair question – for years, beauty has been pedalling the importance of warm versus cool toned makeup – and this extends well beyond complexion. Should we be using gold or silver shadow? A beige-toned lip liner or something more caramel? Will our complexion look brighter if we reach for a mauve blush instead of a coral?

All valid questions, and so I asked a makeup artist to weigh in. Tammi Mayhew is an expert when it comes to using light, shade and pigment to sculpt and brighten the face. She gets the fact that a blue-based red is vastly different to an orange-based red. Or that a taupe nude lip liner is the easiest way to fake pouty definition (aka the Nina Park lip combo, if you know you know). Her expertise and top product picks in every category, below.

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How can I work out if my undertone is cool, warm or neutral?

Your undertone isn’t about how light or tan you are, it’s about the subtle tone sitting underneath your skin. My favourite and quick way to check is to look at your veins in natural light:

Blue/purple – you’re likely coolGreen – you’re likely warmA mix – you’re probably neutral

Another quick test is to put on jewellery:

If gold instantly makes your skin look more radiant – you’re warmIf silver brightens you – you’re coolIf both look good – you’re neutral (and very lucky)

How can I work out if a makeup product is cool, warm or neutral?

This is about the base colour underneath the product:

Warm tones have a yellow, golden, peach, or orange base (think summer colours: terracotta, caramel, bronze, coral)Cool tones have a pink, red, blue, or mauve base (think winter hues: berry, plum, rose, blue-red)

For example:

A warm nude lipstick will lean peachy or caramelA cool nude will look more pink or mauveWarm brown eyeshadow will have golden, bronzed tonesCool brown eyeshadow will have taupe or ashy tones

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If I’m warm, should I be wearing warm-toned makeup and vice versa?

If you have cool undertones you can wear anything with a cooler base. These shades should give your skin a fresh, bright and a polished look:

Silvers, chromes, icy tonesMauves, berries, soft pinksBlue-based reds

If you have warm undertones you’ll glow in warmer, sun-kissed tones that enhance warmth and give that a healthy finish:

Golds, bronzes, champagnesPeaches, corals, terracottaOrange-based reds

Those with neutral undertones are lucky as they can truly play both sides. The key is more about intensity than undertone as they can wear almost everything:

Soft pinks and peachesGold or silverBalanced nudes

Lipstick

Cool-toned nude: Look for a pinky-mauve tone that is close to the natural lip – (you don’t want to lean too beige, as it can wash you out).

Try: Merit Signature Lip Blush in Archival

Try: CHANEL Rouge Allure Velvet in 478 Rencontre

Warm-toned nude: Try an elevated, caramel-toned shade for warmth and a soft contour lip (without heaviness).

Try: CHANEL Rouge Coco Baume Satin in Natural Charm

Try: MERIT Signature Lightweight Lipstick in Slip

Lip Liner

Cool-toned lip liner: A cool lip liner can give you refined, natural definition for a softly sculpted lip. It’s very polished and Parisian.

Try: CHANEL Le Crayon Lèvres Longwear Lip Pencil in 212 Beige Rose

Try: Isamaya Lip Liner in Liberica

Warm-toned lip liner: This should enhance your natural lip colour while still giving structure with a soft, diffused warmth.

Try: Base Camp Beauty × Isabelle Mathers Lip Liner in Signature

Try: CHANEL Le Crayon Levres in 162 Nude Brun

Blush

Cool-toned blush: A cool blush should look like you’ve just come in from the cold: fresh, lifted and natural.

Try: MERIT Flush Balm in Archival

Try: CHANEL Joues Contraste in 72 Rose Initial

Warm blush: A warm sheer blush instantly sculpts skin to give a sun kissed, healthy glow.

Try: Ere Perez Carrot Colour Pot in Healthy

Try: CHANEL Baume Essentiel in Rosé

Eyes

Cool eyeshadow: Opt for taupes and soft cool browns for a refined, sculpted eye.

Try: Chanel Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eye Shadow in 308 Clair-Obscur

Try: CLIO Pro Eye Palette Air in Mute Library

Warm eyeshadow: Warm tones bring so much life into the face and eyes. Try a tint or cream shadow as a minimal wash of colour to create an effortless glow without needing much else.

Try: Armani Eye Tint Long-Lasting Liquid Eyeshadow in 22 Cashew

Try: CHANEL Les Beiges Healthy Glow Natural Eyeshadow Palette in Warm