To go to a Marc Jacobs show is to strap in for an emotional journey, usually one that is brief and extremely off-schedule. In February, after losing a member of his “fashion family”, Louie Chaban, his SS26 show grappled with grief. For his SS27 show on Monday night at The New York Public Library, Jacobs was feeling grateful, wanting to offer up a “little light, shine, colour, beauty and joyful exuberance” through clashing hues, surprise materials and delightful repetition.
Here’s what went down at the four-minute show, fittingly titled Gratitude.
While it was a surprise show, the timing felt incredibly intentional. With America’s 250th anniversary coming up on July 4, Jacobs explored how we can embrace gratitude, “even in life’s most uncertain moments”.
The idea of abundance was embedded throughout his 31-piece SS27 collection. The dramatic colourblocking was dialled up a notch, with models stepping out in bright opaque tights and bodysuits, with sheer PVC-fringed dresses or structured miniskirts layered over top.
Not every Marc Jacobs SS27 model walked out with a belt, but the ones that did had small charms and gold, black or brown chains cascading off them, in a throwback to the mid-2000s. Even the jewellery was hefty and layered – the show featued multiple stacked necklaces, complete with multi-colour beads, chains and shining jewels.
As he did in February, Jacobs gave thanks to those who have “provided the invisible threads of structure” to his life, adding a very specific list of “credits and receipts” to his show notes. This included Junya Watanabe’s SS96 show (with all its beautiful sheer nylon layers), Prada’s SS07 show and his own Louis Vuitton SS09 show. As he wrote in the show notes: “Creating, as an act of gratitude, is my truest form of self-expression”
