The hidden dangers of that delicious glass of rosé… and why it could be silently to blame for your ‘irritable bowel’, hair loss and sudden wheezy cough
It’s the blush-pink drink that signals the arrival of longer, lighter days. And as late spring ushers in the so-called rosé season, bottles of this ever-popular wine will doubtless be uncorked in pub gardens and al fresco gatherings across the country.
What may make rosé even more appealing is the perception that it’s a healthier choice than other alcoholic drinks – its light colour and fruity flavour giving the impression that it’s lower in strength and calories.
It’s certainly true that like red wine, rosé contains beneficial plant compounds known as polyphenols – in particular resveratrol, found in grape skins.
‘These substances have properties that can help combat cell damage and inflammation, potentially supporting heart health,’ explains Helen Bond, a dietitian and spokeswoman for the British Dietetic Association.
‘Studies suggest resveratrol in particular may also support gut and eye health, helping to reduce the risk of age-related macular degeneration [damage to the back of the eye that affects central vision].
‘However, these compounds are present in relatively small amounts in rosé as, unlike red wine, it is only briefly fermented with grape skins, the primary source of resveratrol.‘
And even so, research suggests the benefits of any wine could be overstated.
There is a perception that rosé is a healthier choice than other alcoholic drinks
An analysis last year of more than 40 studies by Brown University in the US looked at the relationship between wine consumption and cancer. The study, in the journal Nutrients, found that red wine – even in moderation – was no better than white wine (which has less resveratrol than rosé) in warding off cancer.
This is may be because alcohol itself is carcinogenic (cancer-causing), so offsetting any potential benefit from resveratrol.
Furthermore, the amount of red wine you would have to drink to get enough therapeutic resveratrol would be massive, adds Helen Bond. ‘And excessive drinking negates these benefits and increases health risk, too.’
Rosé can also have a high sugar content, particularly varieties that are sweet or what’s known as semi or ‘off dry’ – and so contain residual sugar left over from the wine-making process.
A 2022 survey by the Alcohol Health Alliance UK – a coalition of more than 60 organisations working to reduce the harm caused by alcohol – found the sparkling Californian rosé Barefoot Bubbly Pink Moscato topped all charts for sugar content at nearly 14g per 175ml glass.
This is the equivalent to three teaspoons of sugar and a few grams of sugar shy of the equivalent amount of original Coca-Cola, which contains about 18.5g of sugar per 175ml. (The NHS warns us to limit daily intake of added sugar to just 30g per day.)
‘A large 250ml glass of rosé also contains approximately 200 calories, making two large glasses the equivalent to a double cheeseburger or a couple of doughnuts,’ points out Sarah Schenker, a dietitian based in London.
Rosé has certainly grown in popularity as a summer drink among groups of women
Barefoot Bubbly Pink Moscato contains 14g of sugar per 175ml
Another problem is that sometimes those who know about rosé’s calories will still drink it – and avoid eating instead to ‘cheat’ their calorie intake.
But this puts their health at risk in other ways – as alcohol provides ‘empty calories’ so they will be missing out on vital nutrients from food.
‘This pattern of behaviour over time can lead to poor nutrient intake and even deficiencies, particularly of something like iron if you’re skipping evening meals where iron-rich foods are often consumed,’ says Dr Schenker.
‘Poor iron intakes can affect immune system, disrupt hormones, cause fatigue and hair loss.’
Plus, drinking acidic wine on an empty stomach means the alcohol gets into the bloodstream very quickly – which induces that ‘drunk’ feeling faster – but also it comes into direct contact with the gut lining and the gut bacteria there, she adds.
‘This can irritate and damage the cells of the gut lining, which can cause IBS-type symptoms,’ she says.
‘Alcohol can also disrupt the balance of the healthy gut bacteria, leaving more opportunity for “bad” bacteria to thrive, and reduces the effects of “good” bacteria – such as the production of the compound butyrate that maintains the gut lining and protects it from inflammation.’
Being sugary, rosé also has an impact on oral health, adds Nora Albaldawi, a dentist at Skintique Beautiful Smiles in Leicester.
‘More residual sugar means more fermentable carbohydrate [a type of starch broken down into sugar] for oral bacteria, which increases risk of cavities.
‘And if rosé is sipped slowly, the mouth stays acidic for longer – and the risk of enamel erosion rises,’ she adds.
‘Even a dry rosé is still acidic, so it can contribute to enamel wear,’ she adds.
The idea that rosé is less alcoholic than other wines, and therefore healthier, is also not strictly true.
Clive Vickers cautions that rosé is ‘not inherently lower in alcohol’
‘Rosé is not inherently lower in alcohol, despite sometimes being perceived as a lighter option,’ Clive Vickers, owner of Halfpenny Green Wine Estate in Staffordshire, says.
‘Alcohol content is broadly similar across rosé, white and red wines – generally falling between 11 per cent and 13.5 per cent ABV [alcohol by volume, the measure of a drink’s alcoholic strength], although this can vary depending on the grape variety and region.’
Rosé, like white wine, can also have a higher dose of preservatives known as sulphites – up to 200mg per litre in the case of rose, compared with 150mg per litre in red wines.
Though harmless for the vast majority of drinkers, an estimated 2 per cent of people – rising to 5 per cent for those with asthma – are sensitive to sulphites and develop wheezing, coughing and shortness of breath.
The fact is, there is simply no such thing as a healthy alcoholic drink, says Rajiv Jalan, a professor of hepatology at University College London.
‘Liver damage can occur with any amount of alcohol consumed in any form. There’s no reason why rosé would be less harmful than any other form of alcohol. In fact, because rosé wine seems to be light, fragrant and tasty, people may drink more of it without realising.
‘All alcohol, including rosé, is toxic and can cause liver damage through production of substances, such as acetaldehyde and reactive oxygen molecules that can cause cell damage and inflammation,’ he says.
‘So please be careful and don’t assume rosé is less harmful.’
Dr Schenker agrees that while rosé may seem light and sweet, we should not be fooled into thinking it’s a better choice.
She says: ‘As we enter rosé season, enjoy a drink within recommended limits, but don’t kid yourself into believing it’s the healthier option – when the very opposite is true.’
