THE CANNY COOK: Smoked salmon and watercress spaghetti

As I’ve grown older, I seem to have become almost allergic to eating salads in the colder months. Perhaps it’s my growing interest in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) approaches to eating – with their emphasis on the therapeutic nature of cooling and warming foods – but, either way, there have barely been any salad leaves in my fridge for months.

So I’m quite grateful for the shift in temperature that May brings as I’m ready again for leafy greens: a tangle of fiery rocket on the side of my lunch plate or the simplicity of a sharply dressed little gem salad on the table with dinner. But it is watercress – at peak season right now – that is my favourite leaf of all.

Part of the mustard family, watercress is peppery, faintly bitter and brings a bracing energy to salads. Its stalks can be thick, so you may want to separate the more delicate sprigs and trim the bigger stems. I like to chop it all up and fold through mayonnaise for picnic sandwiches, or wilt handfuls with leek, potato and stock for a classic soup. This week’s recipe for salmon and watercress pasta comes from reader Stewart Glover. It’s another fine way to enjoy this seasonal gem.

METHOD

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the instructions on the packet.

Meanwhile, cut the smoked salmon into strips and chop the watercress into small pieces.

Drain the pasta in a sieve. Add the single cream to the saucepan over a low heat and, when it’s warm, add the pasta. Turn off the heat, add the salmon and a knob of butter, and toss.

Season with salt and pepper (remember that the salmon is salty), and a grating of lemon zest is nice, too. Serve in bowls with the watercress scattered over the top.