Which manicure is healthiest – gel, acrylic or BIAB? As gel polish ban kicks into action, experts reveal surprising risks of your favourite treatment

If you’re partial to a gel manicure, recent reports will no doubt have made for concerning reading.

Earlier this month, a ban on a commonly used type of gel polish came into force in the UK, following research linking the product with fertility problems. 

The fears concern a chemical that’s used to harden polish under UV light and has been banned in the EU since September. 

Now, products manufactured in the UK will be forbidden from containing the chemical – called Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO). And, as of early next year, salons using polishes that contain it could be prosecuted. 

The legislation has sparked online debate about the safety of gel manicures, as well as other popular nail treatments. 

It’s no wonder. Nail treatments are the most popular of all beauty therapy in the UK,  with Britons spending some £160 million on the luxury every year. 

So should we all be ditching gel manicures – and are other popular nail treatments any better?

Here, experts reveal what’s safest; gel, acrylic, BIAB or the newfangled Japanese manicure taking the beauty world by storm…

Gel: The salon staple that’s only as good as your nail technician

Gel manicures remain one of the UK’s most popular nail treatments, prized for their chip-resistant, glossy finish that can last for weeks. 

There are two main types – Shellac and pure gel – the former being a hybrid polish with roughly half the longevity of the latter. 

Before the polish is applied, nails are lightly buffed to help the product adhere to the nail surface, before being cured under a UV lamp. 

Removal then involves soaking the nail in acetone and scraping away the polish. 

Unlike traditional polish, gel products contain chemicals known as acrylates, which harden when exposed to UV or LED light. Until recently, some formulations also contained TPO, an ingredient used to trigger this hardening process. 

The chemical has now been banned in the UK and EU after it was deemed potentially harmful to fertility.

The move follows a series of studies that found rats exposed to TPO developed significant reproductive problems. 

Additionally, research has suggested that TPO could act as one of many so-called ‘endocrine disruptors’ in the modern environment – defined as a substance that interferes with hormones.

The World Health Organisation classes endocrine disruptors as a ‘global threat’, as some studies have linked high exposure to these chemicals to increased risk of diabetes, developmental problems and some cancers.  

However, experts stress this does not mean gel manicures themselves are unsafe, with many manufacturers and salons already switching to TPO-free alternatives. 

In fact, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) says all cosmetic nail products sold in the UK must comply with strict safety regulations and undergo extensive assessments before reaching the market. 

But according to nail experts, the biggest risk to nail health often comes not from the gel itself, but from the way it is applied and removed. 

‘Any sort of over-buffing is going to damage the nail,’ Donia Chrifi, the founder of natural nail-care brand SWANKY, said.

‘If every time you go into the salon your nails are filed aggressively, over time you will see that damage.’ 

Dermatologists have also raised concerns about allergies linked to acrylates, chemicals commonly used in gel nail products.

In a small number of people, uncured gel that comes into contact with the skin can trigger an allergic reaction. Once developed, these allergies can be permanent. 

There have also been concerns over the UV lamps used to cure gel polish.

A 2023 study found that radiation emitted by the lamps could damage skin cells, in lab studies, prompting fears over a possible cancer risk.

However, experts say the findings should be interpreted with caution, and that the real-world risk to salon-goers is likely to be small. 

The UV exposure from occasional gel manicures is substantially lower than the cumulative exposure most people receive from the sun over time, which remains the leading cause of skin cancer.

For those who remain concerned, some dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen to the backs of the hands before a gel appointment.

BIAB isn’t as good for your nails as you might think 

BIAB, also known as builder gel in a bottle, was marketed as acrylic’s gentler sister. 

The thick gel coating acts like a protective shell, helping people grow longer nails by shielding them from day-to-day knocks and breakages. 

The substance contains extra molecules called oligomers, which provide thickness and strength while remaining flexible. 

But while BIAB can make nails appear stronger, experts say it does not necessarily improve the health of the natural nail underneath.

‘This is one of the biggest myths in the nail world,’ Chrifi says. 

‘Your natural nails will grow underneath BIAB, because you’ve got this thick layer of builder gel protecting them from breaking.

‘But it won’t miraculously restore the strength of your natural nails.’

She added that while BIAB is generally considered a gentler option than acrylics, repeated application and removal can still leave nails just as brittle. 

‘When BIAB is removed, particularly if the nails have been repeatedly over-filed or the product has been removed aggressively, you may find that the natural nails underneath feel thinner, weaker or more prone to breaking.’ 

Acrylic: The toughest manicures are often the harshest 

Acrylic nails are created by mixing a liquid and powder to form an acrylic substance – which is often applied over a plastic tip that has been glued on to the natural nail to add extension. 

The result is one of the most durable manicure finishes available, with a fresh set lasting for several weeks.

But while the CTPA maintains all nail products in the UK are subject to rigorous safety checks, meaning they shouldn’t pose significant harm – the removal of acrylics can cause long-lasting damage.

Repeated application and removal can gradually strip away keratin, the protein that gives nails their strength and structure.  

 ‘Acrylics are great for durability, but they require the most intervention to the natural nail,’ Chrifi says. 

Leaving acrylics on for too long can also risk trapping moisture beneath them, experts warn, creating a breeding ground for bacteria. 

While infections are relatively minor, they can develop into something more serious if left untreated, where nails have to be removed. 

Give your nails a break with a Japanese Manicure 

The Japanese manicure has been quietly building a cult following for its natural, low-maintenance approach to nail care. 

This treatment is a no-polish manicure that gives nails a natural shine – and a break from any chemical substance.

It involves buffing the nails with a mineral-rich paste, often made from algae, followed by a powder which contains beeswax to give the nail a much sought-after glossy finish. 

Advocates say it’s also restorative.  

‘Obviously, the more natural something is, the better it is for your nails,’ Chrifi said. 

For this reason, Chrifi considers Japanese manicures the healthiest option for people looking to restore nail health. 

‘A Japanese manicure is a very nourishing treatment focused entirely on the natural nail, using products worked into the nail plate to help condition it and improve its appearance. 

‘When you’re giving your nails a “break” it’s actually more important to have regular manicures to protect and restore your natural nails. 

‘A lot of people don’t do this – and often talk about letting their nails “breathe”, but nails don’t breathe. 

‘What they really need is gentle care, hydration and time for healthy new nail to grow.’  

Experts at the CTPA agree. 

‘The visible part of the nail is formed from dead cells, and therefore does not need to “breathe” or be exposed to the air to remain healthy. 

‘But improper application or removal of gel manicures, as well as over-filing can potentially cause damage to the surface. In these cases, nails should be given a break to help them maintain their natural strength and avoid thinning or weakening.’ 

What will the TPO ban mean for me? 

The TPO ban does not outlaw gel manicures.

‘A key misconception about cosmetic products is that they contain ingredients which are toxic or dangerous, Caroline Rainsford, the director of the CTPA, said.

‘This is absolutely not the case, and the UK and EU Cosmetics Regulations are there to make sure that no ingredients in cosmetic products can cause us harm.’

Experts say TPO-free products tend to be free from fragrance and chemicals called phthalates. Customers can look for labels that state this on polishes. 

‘Avoid getting the product on the skin, use the correct lamp to fully cure gel nails, and make sure any leftover product is removed carefully to avoid skin contact,’ advises Rainsford.

‘Don’t use products at home which are labelled as being for professionals only.’